Affogato Variations: Balancing Espresso and Gelato for a Creative Dessert
The affogato, a simple Italian classic of espresso poured over gelato, is inspiring chefs and cafes to experiment with flavors and spirits, from boozy twists to matcha versions, while keeping the focus on quality ingredients.
By Taylor Hill3 min read
In Italy, the affogato is a familiar sight, and it is gaining traction in coffee shops, restaurants, and ice cream parlors throughout the United States. The name comes from the Italian word for “drowned,” and the standard version consists of a scoop of fior di latte gelato—essentially milk-flavored—with one or two shots of espresso poured over it.
Because an affogato contains only two components—espresso and gelato or ice cream—the quality of each is crucial, and they must complement each other. Chains such as Bluestone Lane and Blue Bottle Coffee opt for plain vanilla ice cream to keep the profile clean and simple, contrasting the rich, chocolatey espresso with the sweet, smooth ice cream. The classic affogato remains delicious, but creative interpretations are also emerging.
Achieving Balance
Affogatos are now appearing on dessert menus at trendy new restaurants. At Magari in Hollywood, executive chef Enrico Merendino uses a housemade fior di latte gelato. “As far as coffee goes, it should never be acidic,” he says. Merendino chose Danesi Caffé coffee for its mild, nutty flavor and serves it with a pasta di mandorle cookie, flavored with almond, from his native Sicily for dipping.
Graham cracker-flavored ice cream paired with Bradbury’s blend from Ruby Coffee Roasters.
“The perfect affogato is rich, velvety, and strong,” says chef Lisa Dahl of Pisa Lisa and Dahl & DiLuca in Sedona, Arizona. “The espresso must have a full body and smooth finish. I look for the right balance in tannins and espresso with creaminess on top.” At Pisa Lisa, she keeps it straightforward with espresso, hazelnut gelato, and housemade biscotti. The affogato at Dahl & DiLuca is more adventurous and boozy, with a shot of limoncello poured over lemon chiffon gelato, plus a double shot of espresso on the side. “Most people tend to rotate between the lemon creation and the espresso so that taste buds are treated to a balance of sweet, tart, and bitter,” she says.
Clementine’s Creamery in St. Louis serves affogatos with locally roasted Goshen Coffee Roasters. Here you can double down with coffee ice cream and espresso, or pick a “naughty” boozy flavor like maple bourbon pecan, which contains up to 18% alcohol for a sweet adults-only twist on caffè corretto.
Beyond the Classics
A proliferation of new coffee liqueurs like Mr. Black, Jägermeister Cold Brew Coffee, and St. George NOLA Coffee Liqueur make it easy to spike your affogato. Botolino Gelato in Dallas has two affogato variations on their menu, one with espresso and coffee liqueur, topped with crunchy bits of burnt chocolate.
At ice cream shops like Morgenstern’s in New York City and Gelateria Uli in Los Angeles, guests can order an affogato with any flavor from the case, although some flavors pair better than others with coffee. At Gelateria Uli, sea salt caramel, stracciatella, gianduja, vanilla, and pistachio are especially popular options, complemented by Counter Culture Coffee espresso. “I recommend a horchata gelato affogato for guests looking for something more unusual,” says owner Uli Nasibova. “Just stay away from anything fruity or high acid flavors.”
Cafe Demitasse in Santa Monica is getting ambitious this summer with a new affogato. The artisan coffee roaster is making their own hojicha ice cream with a Cuisinart ice cream maker and garnishing the affogato with fresh strawberries and mint. Even if you aren’t able to make your own ice cream, putting an affogato on the menu can be a great opportunity to partner with a small-batch local ice cream brand—and the sky’s the limit when it comes to flavor combinations.
Think outside the box with a matchagato, replacing espresso with matcha. Or add a sprinkle of cacao nibs on top for a crunchy accent. Consider serving your affogato in a chilled bowl to keep the ice cream from melting too quickly. Whether you keep it classic or get creative, affogatos are easy to execute and a welcome new addition to summer menus.
Amber Gibson graduated as valedictorian from Northwestern University’s Medill School of Journalism and writes about travel, food, drink, and wellness for Saveur, Conde Nast Traveler, The Daily Telegraph, Hemispheres, Chicago Tribune, Vegetarian Times, The Kitchn, and many more.
