[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":766},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fsouth-america\u002Fon-the-shoulders-of-a-coffee-giant":3,"platform:site":251,"more:\u002Fsouth-america\u002Fon-the-shoulders-of-a-coffee-giant":701},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":173,"category":174,"categorySlugs":185,"cid":186,"cover":187,"description":191,"extension":192,"featured":193,"language":194,"meta":195,"navigation":196,"noindex":193,"ogImage":197,"path":198,"publishedAt":199,"readingMinutes":200,"recipe":173,"related":201,"revisedAt":173,"seo":233,"seoDescription":191,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":173,"sources":234,"stem":238,"tagSlugs":239,"tags":242,"translations":247,"type":248,"url":249,"__hash__":250},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53954.md","Cultivating Specialty Coffee on Brazil's Industrial-Scale Legacy","2026-10-20T11:20:31.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Parker Morgan","parker-morgan","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":164},"minimark",[15,20,29,36,45,49,52,55,59,66,69,72,80,84,87,90,96,99,102,105,109,112,118,123,126,129,132,135,138,145,148,151,155,158,161],[16,17,19],"h2",{"id":18},"brazil-from-sweat-to-innovation","Brazil: From Sweat to Innovation",[21,22,23,24,28],"p",{},"Ever pause to consider how Brazil came to supply roughly one-third of the world's coffee? The short answer is hard labor. A great deal of that labor went unacknowledged, yet it saturates Candido Portinari's ",[25,26,27],"em",{},"Café",", a 1935 oil painting held by the National Museum of Fine Arts in Rio de Janeiro. The scene captures a sprawling, orderly farm in Alta Mogiana during harvest, with a vast operation in full swing. Workers' oversized limbs lug heavy sacks of cherries toward a central collection point. Their feet are as large as their shins; their hands mirror their forearms. Every person handling the coffee looks worn out.",[21,30,31,32,35],{},"Injustice and infrastructure gaps persist, but Brazil today is broadly a good place for a coffee harvester to work. Fair pay, along with the wide adoption of tractors and heavy-duty processing equipment, makes the day's labor more bearable. What ultimately pulled Brazil away from Portinari's punishing vision? Innovation. Coffee farming in Mogiana and Sul de Minas stands as an agricultural marvel. In sharp contrast to the nation's past as one of its most gifted artists rendered it, the region is full of warm faces and ",[25,33,34],{},"pão de queijo",", the local cheese roll. All of this has turned the area into the backbone of the Brazilian coffee sector—perhaps even a stand-in for high-volume agriculture worldwide.",[21,37,38],{},[39,40],"img",{"alt":41,"height":42,"src":43,"width":44},"John Moore and Byron Holcomb at FAL Coffee's wet mill in Brazil.",500,"\u002Fuploads\u002F412af87833066ea0949d.webp",333,[21,46,47],{},[25,48,41],{},[21,50,51],{},"John Moore heads a young farming venture that seeks to join a small group of growers devoted to high-grade coffee in the region. He speaks in mellow but assured tones—a veteran coffee professional who has spent two decades methodically riding the second and third waves. Today he serves as managing partner and CEO of FAL Coffee, a vertically integrated coffee company within the Saudi investment group FAL Holdings, a sprawling global conglomerate with industrial, financial, medical, and agricultural arms.",[21,53,54],{},"Seeking tighter quality control, FAL Coffee purchased two farms—Santa Izabel and Monte Verde—in the springs of 2013 and 2014, respectively, and equipped them with state-of-the-art agricultural and processing technology. Moore and his team are learning the Brazilian soil in order to coax fine coffees out of an agricultural powerhouse that holds as much quality potential as it does volume. Through their roasting brand Nobletree, FAL aims to source beans from origins around the world, starting with Brazil and much of it from its own farms. A roastery is under construction in New York City, and the first café is slated to open this fall in the World Trade Center complex.",[16,56,58],{"id":57},"a-coffee-career-finds-its-origin","A Coffee Career Finds Its Origin",[21,60,61,62,65],{},"At the wet mill of Monte Verde, FAL Coffee's newest farm near Carmo de Minas, Moore reflects on his long-standing wish to get closer to origin—a desire dating to the nineties, when he first started roasting coffee in his twenties. As part of the taste-shaping circle of small home roasters, he had to work at night to keep from bothering his neighbors' sense of smell. \"I'd be sitting in there cupping in the dark alone reading Ted Lingle's ",[25,63,64],{},"Coffee Cupper's Handbook",",\" John explains, holding his palms skyward. \"I remember dreaming about the people that taste coffee . . . and that's their job. And there are these farms in god-knows-where. That definitely planted the seed for me.\"",[21,67,68],{},"Such an early start in appreciating coffee positioned him well to become a second-wave mogul. Yet he turned down one or two of the more meteoric opportunities, accepting pay cuts along the way. Whether his choices came from foresight or chance, his current role overseeing a highly integrated operation feels like no accident. He recalls the crossroads he faced fresh out of college in 1994, with job offers from two separate up-and-coming companies: New World Coffee or Starbucks. \"I was going to do the Starbucks gig, because they were still fun,\" he says. \"Their parting words in the interview were: 'We're going to be the McDonald's of coffee some day.' I'm coming out of school where I designed my own major: half philosophy, half classical studies. I was like, hell no.\"",[21,70,71],{},"New World Coffee expanded at a breakneck pace until the bubble burst, and Moore found himself in Germany for seven years running two cafés and a wine and spirits importer. Upon returning, he acclimated to the new state of coffee in the United States as a member of the Counter Culture Coffee team from 2006–2007*. Eventually, Moore joined Dallis Bros., where he gained his first familiarity with Brazil and met Byron Holcomb and Matt Swenson—the first two people he would hire after founding FAL Coffees.",[21,73,74],{},[39,75],{"alt":76,"height":77,"src":78,"width":79},"CoffeePlants",800,"\u002Fuploads\u002Feea1fab64e537c74d974.webp",1200,[16,81,83],{"id":82},"precision-agriculture-meets-steep-terrain","Precision Agriculture Meets Steep Terrain",[21,85,86],{},"At Monte Verde's cabin in Carmo de Minas, Moore, Holcomb, and Swenson pore over a series of maps colored in a bright spectrum not unlike a typical Brazilian lot of mechanically picked cherries. The maps display soil readings and the nutrients needed to feed trees in each section of the farm. Although much of Brazil's landscape lends itself to mechanical harvesting—tractors combing fields and shaking cherries loose—the hills at both Monte Verde and Santa Izabel can get quite steep. For now, tractor use at Monte Verde is limited to hauling cherries from fields to the wet mill. Moore plans to terrace the farms, and that work has begun, but slowly. \"It's literally bull-dozing a flat surface into mountain sides,\" Moore explains. \"And you're like, that's insane, until you think for every year going forward pickers will have much more immediate access to the trees. They won't be falling or slipping.\"",[21,88,89],{},"For the time being, instead of tractors, workers manually strip each branch bare with one swift motion onto a circular-framed screen that winnows out twigs and leaves. Unlike selective handpicking, this strip-picking yields cherries at varying stages of ripeness—from green to bright red to an obscure purple—which must be sorted during processing.",[21,91,92],{},[39,93],{"alt":94,"height":42,"src":95,"width":44},"DryingBeds","\u002Fuploads\u002Ff0d9b1541bf9b2696767.webp",[21,97,98],{},"This picking method, which would be unacceptable to specialty-focused growers in many countries, is an economic necessity in Brazil. Because laborers earn five times the average wages of Central American workers, harvesting lots one ripe cherry at a time is not feasible. \"Labor is between fifty to sixty percent of your cost of production,\" Holcomb says. \"You either have to decrease your labor or produce a whole lot of coffee.\"",[21,100,101],{},"Those wages reflect Brazil's long, sometimes faltering development. \"The more Brazil advances socially, the higher the costs for coffee production,\" says Edgard Bressani, CEO of O'Coffee. His business is a leading quality producer and exporter and the distribution arm of one of Brazil's most storied coffee families, the Quercias.",[21,103,104],{},"O'Coffee also operates Octavio Café in São Paulo, making it analogous to FAL Coffee and Nobletree. While Bressani is now Moore's counterpart, he was once his main supplier when O'Coffee and Dallis Bros. were different pieces of the same vertical company from 2007–2013. During that period, Moore, Holcomb, and Swenson gained experience working together and learned about micro-lots in the land of macro. \"O'Coffee was able to show John and Byron what a specialty coffee farm devoted to quality could do to differ from the others,\" Bressani says. \"The attention to detail and teamwork was also something we shared.\"",[16,106,108],{"id":107},"processing-for-quality-not-just-volume","Processing for Quality, Not Just Volume",[21,110,111],{},"At most farms, once cherries are milled, they are hauled to large mechanical driers to bring the parchment coffee to the required eleven percent moisture. A specialty-oriented farm will use these tools, but the quality of equipment and processes are leagues away from commodity growers. Where some farms dry their coffee so quickly it requires quenching, those concerned with preserving a bean's integrity take care not to bake it. Blending a harvest for efficiency's sake is the status quo, but FAL and other quality producers spend the time and resources to separate different ripeness levels into uniform micro-lots, which command a higher price.",[21,113,114],{},[39,115],{"alt":116,"height":42,"src":117,"width":44},"JoseAngeloSI","\u002Fuploads\u002Fa4480e016e236fdb89c1.webp",[21,119,120],{},[25,121,122],{},"Jose Angelo, the foreman at Santa Izabel farm. \"What we're doing is revolutionizing coffee for the region of Ouro Fino.\"",[21,124,125],{},"At Monte Verde's lab, this atomized process produced a surprisingly wide range of profiles. A single round of FAL coffees on the cupping tables included one tasting of light, pillowy Greek yogurt with a hint of lemon and another with notes of creamy, balsamic vinegar. \"It will blow your mind these coffees were grown an acre apart,\" Matt Swenson says. \"That's the fun and challenging part because you're finding profiles that will make blends that can match that complexity of the farm.\"",[21,127,128],{},"The best of FAL's micro-lots will go to their Nobletree cafés. Since Nobletree promises a line of premium coffee—all clearing a bar of eighty-five points—not all of FAL's coffee will reach Manhattan. Given the different gradations of quality inevitable in high-volume, strip-picked production, Swenson, director of sourcing, is in charge of herding many different coffees up and down a sliding scale of value.",[21,130,131],{},"Fifty percent of the coffee hauled to the mill at both farms during harvest months will receive the Nobletree label, whether in the café or by wholesale. FAL estimates that thirty to forty percent will remain in Brazil's domestic market. The remaining ten percent or so will go to private-label roasting for brands such as Fika, a Manhattan chain of high-end Swedish coffee bistros.",[21,133,134],{},"That so much effort and money is being placed into a dynamic farm in a country with a reputation for one-dimensional coffee offers hope to producers like Felipe Barretto Croce, who want to spend time and money on lot separation and quality processing.",[21,136,137],{},"After growing up in Chicago, Croce returned to work at his mother's farm, Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza. \"When I got into coffee in 2007, everyone's thought about Brazil is that it's always the same basic flavor,\" Croce says. \"How is that possible when you can fit fifty Costa Ricas into one country? Perhaps good coffees just weren't getting to roasters. Maybe these coffees weren't being developed?\"",[21,139,140],{},[39,141],{"alt":142,"height":42,"src":143,"width":144},"holdingCherries","\u002Fuploads\u002F6338938c51d56c8c044a.webp",412,[21,146,147],{},"After touring Brazil and working with neighboring farms to improve quality, he has collaborated with US roasters such as 1000 Faces Coffee and Blue Bottle Coffee to produce innovative craft sampler boxes, elucidating the characteristics of different varietals, locations, and processing methods.",[21,149,150],{},"FAL has similar hopes to better understand the land's terroir, though it's decidedly next level. \"I think one of the projects might be cupping to the precision ag map,\" Swenson says, referring to the multi-colored farm maps. \"This is what a potassium deficiency tastes like, low magnesium, aluminum surplus. That sort of stuff takes years. If you do it once it's not conclusive enough to say this is fact. We take more of a scientific approach where you need two or three years of data to make statements like that happen.\" This living-experiment aspect makes Santa Izabel and Monte Verde feel like a museum exhibit or a test farm similar to Starbucks' venture in Costa Rica.",[16,152,154],{"id":153},"revolutionizing-a-region","Revolutionizing a Region",[21,156,157],{},"Under a dome-like blue sky, Holcomb jostles his truck up to Santa Izabel's apex while Moore and Jose Angelo, the farm's foreman, plant their feet in the truck bed, shoulders echoing the shift of the rollbar. Angelo has produced innumerable volumes from this farm in the twenty-three years he's worked it. He says area producers have scoffed at the unconventional, quality-minded practices at Santa Izabel for some time now.",[21,159,160],{},"\"Ten, twelve years ago,\" Angelo recalls, \"when we started to produce quality with the past owner, people said, 'It's crazy; you guys are going to lose money.' Now people are saying the same things again, but really what we're doing is revolutionizing coffee for the region of Ouro Fino.\"",[21,162,163],{},"*The original version of this story said that John Moore worked at Counter Culture Coffee from 2005–2009.",{"title":165,"searchDepth":166,"depth":166,"links":167},"",2,[168,169,170,171,172],{"id":18,"depth":166,"text":19},{"id":57,"depth":166,"text":58},{"id":82,"depth":166,"text":83},{"id":107,"depth":166,"text":108},{"id":153,"depth":166,"text":154},null,{"slug":175,"name":176,"path":177},"south-america","South America",[178,181,184],{"slug":179,"name":180},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":182,"name":183},"coffee-origins","Coffee Origins",{"slug":175,"name":176},[179,182,175],53954,{"src":188,"srcset":189,"width":79,"height":77,"alt":190},"\u002Fuploads\u002Fbfaf64b1c917ea192a51.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Facff44880f3040d0f355.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002Fb0a2e8e3be01ae0af26a.webp 800w, \u002Fuploads\u002Fbfaf64b1c917ea192a51.webp 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800w",643,"Peet’s Big Month",{"url":219,"title":220,"cover":221},"\u002Fcafe-operations\u002Fbeyond-the-pastry-case-at-birch-coffee","Why One Café Chose to Shrink Its Kitchen and Refocus on Coffee",{"src":222,"srcset":223,"width":77,"height":224,"alt":225},"\u002Fuploads\u002F54ac046b5a6043cf1159.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Fd3757b355a0368f613ca.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F54ac046b5a6043cf1159.webp 800w",533,"Beyond the Pastry Case: at Birch Coffee",{"url":227,"title":228,"cover":229},"\u002Fbarista-skills\u002Ftamping-the-consistency-game","The Consistency Game: Rethinking Tamping for Better Espresso",{"src":230,"srcset":231,"width":77,"height":77,"alt":232},"\u002Fuploads\u002F4dfc976994b457878577.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002F5055701e10d45a4269f9.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F4dfc976994b457878577.webp 800w","Tamping: the Consistency 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America","\u002Fcentral-america",[],[422,423,424],{"slug":179,"name":180},{"slug":182,"name":183},{"slug":411,"name":418},{"slug":175,"name":176,"description":173,"count":426,"url":427,"pages":280,"parent":182,"children":428,"path":429},7,"\u002Fsouth-america",[],[430,431,432],{"slug":179,"name":180},{"slug":182,"name":183},{"slug":175,"name":176},{"slug":412,"name":434,"description":173,"count":435,"url":436,"pages":280,"parent":182,"children":437,"path":438},"Africa",6,"\u002Fafrica",[],[439,440,441],{"slug":179,"name":180},{"slug":182,"name":183},{"slug":412,"name":434},{"slug":413,"name":443,"description":173,"count":444,"url":445,"pages":280,"parent":182,"children":446,"path":447},"Asia-Pacific",10,"\u002Fasia-pacific",[],[448,449,450],{"slug":179,"name":180},{"slug":182,"name":183},{"slug":413,"name":443},{"slug":262,"name":452,"description":173,"count":453,"url":454,"pages":166,"parent":179,"children":455,"path":459},"Sustainability & 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