[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":770},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fopinion\u002Fspecialty-coffee-is-now-mainstream-is-that-a-good-or-bad-thing":3,"platform:site":257,"more:\u002Fopinion\u002Fspecialty-coffee-is-now-mainstream-is-that-a-good-or-bad-thing":709},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":179,"category":180,"categorySlugs":191,"cid":192,"cover":193,"description":199,"extension":200,"featured":201,"language":202,"meta":203,"navigation":204,"noindex":201,"ogImage":205,"path":206,"publishedAt":207,"readingMinutes":208,"recipe":179,"related":209,"revisedAt":179,"seo":242,"seoDescription":199,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":179,"sources":243,"stem":247,"tagSlugs":248,"tags":250,"translations":253,"type":254,"url":255,"__hash__":256},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53967.md","Specialty Coffee's Mainstream Moment: Growth Brings Both Promise and Pitfalls","2026-10-20T11:21:11.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Harper Parker","harper-parker","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":172},"minimark",[15,19,22,25,28,31,34,37,40,43,46,51,54,57,60,63,66,69,81,84,88,91,102,105,108,119,122,125,128,131,138,141,145,148,159,162,169],[16,17,18],"p",{},"Every week, I stop by The Folk in Odense, Denmark—a specialty coffee bar that also happens to be a bustling brunch spot with an international following. On weekends, the crowd is a mix: young professionals tapping away on laptops, sipping iced matchas, alongside families spanning generations who gather for a meal. The coffee menu mirrors that diversity. Co-owners Milena and Dmitry keep their audience in mind, offering a medium-roast house espresso next to fruit-forward pour-overs.",[16,20,21],{},"On a recent visit, I chose a pour-over that seemed a bit out there: a Costa Rica from Amsterdam’s Dak Coffee Roasters, with tasting notes of cherry, purple grape, and licorice. Not long ago, a coffee like that would have been confined to niche shops catering to die-hard enthusiasts. Now it was simply another item on a broad drinks list.",[16,23,24],{},"So I asked Milena: had specialty coffee become fully mainstream? “Hell yeah,” she replied, without missing a beat.",[16,26,27],{},"That sentiment is echoing across the industry. I first encountered it at a panel discussion titled “Specialty coffee has gone mainstream – is that a problem?” at the 2026 Danish Coffee Festival, organized by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) of Denmark.",[16,29,30],{},"I now live in Denmark, but I grew up in New York. My father, a baby boomer who grew up on pre-ground Folgers and Maxwell House, is astonished by the price of a specialty batch brew. Yet he’s still curious about the specialty café right next to his office—proof that the appeal of the latte reaches even those who long for the $1 cup of the past.",[16,32,33],{},"Data from the National Coffee Association supports the panel’s premise. Traditional coffee remains popular in 2026: 62% of American adults had consumed it in the past week, a rate unchanged since 2022. Specialty coffee, by contrast, is climbing steadily—58% of American adults reported drinking it in the past week, up from 53% in 2022.",[16,35,36],{},"At the same time, big corporations and private equity firms are entering the sector in growing numbers, mimicking the look and feel of specialty while selling at lower prices—a response to shifting consumer tastes.",[16,38,39],{},"A clear tension emerges: what happens when specialty coffee—which emerged as a counterpoint to lower-quality commodity coffee—becomes the mainstream? Does it lose something vital when large brands and multinationals get involved?",[16,41,42],{},"At least among the Danish Coffee Festival panelists—including prominent coffee business founders Klaus Thomsen, Jonas Gehl, Bram de Hoog, and moderator Omar Maagaard Hossain—optimism about specialty’s future persists. Together, they believe the sector’s growth will lift all boats.",[16,44,45],{},"Still, this is an uncertain, transitional period for specialty—and for the coffee industry at large.",[47,48,50],"h2",{"id":49},"how-we-got-here-defining-specialty","How We Got Here: Defining Specialty",[16,52,53],{},"Around the world, specialty coffee goes by different names. In Czechia, it’s “výběrová káva,” or “selected coffee.” In Denmark, it’s been called “barista kaffe.” These terms arose in contrast to commodity coffee, which many still treat as the baseline.",[16,55,56],{},"Complicating matters further, there’s no universal agreement on what constitutes specialty coffee. Within the industry, the term describes a coffee experience recognized for its distinct attributes; traditionally, that has meant a coffee scoring 80 or above on the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA)’s 2004 scale. But when it comes to customers’ understanding, perception is what counts.",[16,58,59],{},"“There’s both the ‘specialty grade’ of green coffee, which is a standard, and the consumer side, where many would consider a coffee shop that does latte art ‘specialty.’ I think both have become more mainstream, or more accessible to people in general,” says Klaus Thomsen, co-founder of Danish coffee brand Coffee Collective.",[16,61,62],{},"Thomsen has been involved with specialty coffee since the mid-2000s. Today, he says, specialty is mainstream enough that pour-overs are easy to find, and nearly every friend group has a coffee nerd. In my circle, I’m that nerd—always looking for a chance to discuss flavor notes and farmer compensation. I’ve heard many acquaintances describe their own varied understandings of specialty, including vague notions about quality: what the coffee should taste like, how it’s presented, where it comes from, and the look and feel of the brand selling it.",[16,64,65],{},"A clearer definition of “specialty” is needed, Thomsen says. More roasters are making efforts to highlight specialty’s unique focus on sourcing and equity, for instance. Coffee Collective publishes a transparency report detailing what it pays farmers, and even includes this information on its coffee bags.",[16,67,68],{},"Other businesses, from mom-and-pop shops to multinationals, are borrowing the aesthetics and messaging of specialty coffee, if not its actual principles. Take Blue Bottle, which began as a single coffee cart in 2002 but was later acquired by Nestlé and by the Chinese brand Luckin Coffee as of this year. As Blue Bottle has scaled the specialty concept for a wider consumer base, it has also raised questions about whether this has tarnished its original ethos.",[16,70,71,72,76,77,80],{},"Meanwhile, one sign that specialty has gone mainstream is its presence in unexpected places, like gas stations, according to Bram de Hoog, general manager of the Germany-based brand Paso Paso. “A place that is not traditionally known for quality has incorporated specialty coffee in their offering, ",[73,74,75],"span",{},"including the"," use of high-end espresso machines and more premium beverages like ",[73,78,79],{},"the"," flat white,” he says.",[16,82,83],{},"Consider the global convenience chain 7-Eleven, which now offers a range of single-origin coffees. Even McDonald’s has joined in, from marketing materials that poke fun at the flat white to advertisements offering “barista coffee for a reasonable price” in the Nordics.",[47,85,87],{"id":86},"aesthetics-without-engagement","Aesthetics Without Engagement",[16,89,90],{},"There’s something questionable about larger brands emulating specialty coffee to gain market share, including in the growing at-home market. Even as many adopt the language and imagery of specialty coffee—phrases like “100% arabica” and “single-origin,” paired with photos of smiling farmers—they lag behind on many of the industry’s original commitments to social and environmental progress.",[16,92,93,94,97,98,101],{},"Komma Kaffe founder and CEO Omar Maagaard Hossain sees a shift toward a “specialty mindset” among at-home consumers, who are buying espresso machines in high numbers. At the same time, he laments their tendency to buy coffee from big-name brands backed by popular entertainers. “I’m a huge fan of ",[73,95,96],{},"George"," Clooney, but I don’t think ",[73,99,100],{},"his Nespresso ad"," counts as specialty,” he says.",[16,103,104],{},"Over the last 20 years, watchdogs have documented human rights abuses by many multinational coffee companies. Among them, Nestlé (parent company of Nespresso) has been called out for “coffeewashing” due to numerous scandals, including slave labor and wage theft. Meanwhile, most coffee farmers are prevented from setting their own prices due to the global commodity market (also called the C market), and many cannot afford to stay in coffee if they want to support their families.",[16,106,107],{},"“Aspects such as bean quality, traceability, and transparency are not mainstream to the same degree,” says De Hoog. “This results in an expansion of the aesthetics of specialty coffee, but not the full product offering, especially in quality and sustainability.”",[16,109,110,111,114,115,118],{},"He especially sees “larger coffee businesses ",[73,112,113],{},"buying"," specialty-grade coffee at lower prices and without ",[73,116,117],{},"building"," relationships,” which is what actually makes coffee production economically viable for farmers. Additionally, “There is very little true accountability. If you want, you can label commodity-grade beans as specialty without many people noticing, apart from bean quality.”",[16,120,121],{},"Think of a specialty-curious but traditional coffee drinker in your life. For me, it’s a millennial friend who can move between Trader Joe’s Wake Up Blend and an Ethiopian single origin with ease. He wants to support farmers, but can’t pay $30 for 12 ounces of coffee, and looks doubtful when I point out the clarity of a blueberry note.",[16,123,124],{},"In theory, if specialty coffee businesses with demonstrated commitments to transparency can win over more of these consumers, that could lead to a broader positive impact. To this end, I’ve seen roasters from Queens to Odense begin offering a wider range of roasts and price points. Meanwhile, the SCA’s transition away from the 100-point scale for evaluating specialty coffee—it launched the Coffee Value Assessment in 2023, which has room for a wider range of cultural assessments—shows the industry is becoming more accepting of a broader understanding of “specialty.”",[16,126,127],{},"Indeed, growth in specialty may hinge on the acceptance that not everyone can appreciate a gesha. For example, Hossain tells me that his father-in-law has served as the guinea pig for Komma Kaffe’s portfolio, which now offers a wider range of roasts for different tastes.",[16,129,130],{},"“It’s okay to like a dark-roasted traditional coffee because that’s a comfort zone for you,” says Jonas Gehl, co-founder and CEO of Denmark’s Prolog Coffee.",[16,132,133,134,137],{},"Thomsen agrees that there’s room to bring more consumers into the specialty fold if they’re invited in on their own terms. “",[73,135,136],{},"I fundamentally believe"," that customers are much smarter than a lot of roasters and coffee shops give them credit for,” he says. His experience has shown him that “everyone can taste the difference between a delicate light roast and a bitter, dark roast. When we put up tastings of two different Kenyans they would also be able to taste the difference and even put similar words to the coffees as we would.”",[16,139,140],{},"Even consumers of dark roasts or commodity coffee are open to choosing fairer coffees when they feel there is also room for their taste preferences. Thomsen is even making headway with a neighbor or two, who are newer to specialty coffee consumption.",[47,142,144],{"id":143},"its-not-all-or-nothing","‘It’s Not All or Nothing’",[16,146,147],{},"Today, specialty businesses face many challenges, not least of which is corporations co-opting the specialty aesthetic while diluting the sector’s values. But Thomsen, Gehl, De Hoog, and Hossain still see reason for hope, even as specialty coffee enters a new, mainstream era.",[16,149,150,151,154,155,158],{},"Doubling down on the value of fair sourcing and transparency in the supply chain is one way that specialty can continue to distinguish itself from corporate lookalikes, they suggest. Though still uncommon, the farmer co-ownership model used by brands like Pachamama Coffee and Paso Paso can create a more equitable value chain from producer to consumer. “In our business ",[73,152,153],{},"…"," the money will always flow back to the farmer,” says Paso Paso’s De Hoog. “For farmers, ",[73,156,157],{},"our model"," assures a long-term commitment and shared decision-making. For coffee shops and retailers, it assures long-term commitment as well as supply.”",[16,160,161],{},"While some believe specialty means “small” while mainstream is about saturation, a middle path is now needed. Making lasting relationships with farmers and showcasing the value of this coffee at the point of sale is the key to keeping specialty sustainable at a larger scale. Thomsen sees a way for this middle option to raise the bar for everyone.",[16,163,164,165,168],{},"“If we intentionally stayed ultra-small, just for the sake of remaining ‘special,’ we wouldn’t fulfill our purpose of bringing more value to farmers,” he says. It would also make it harder for Coffee Collective to “",[73,166,167],{},"create"," more exciting coffee experiences for more people.”",[16,170,171],{},"Progress is slow, and it often requires embracing contradictions. “In one room of my house, I have a piece of furniture that’s carpenter-made and another that’s from IKEA,” Thomsen said on the panel that inspired this article. “It’s not all or nothing.”",{"title":173,"searchDepth":174,"depth":174,"links":175},"",2,[176,177,178],{"id":49,"depth":174,"text":50},{"id":86,"depth":174,"text":87},{"id":143,"depth":174,"text":144},null,{"slug":181,"name":182,"path":183},"opinion","Opinion",[184,187,190],{"slug":185,"name":186},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":188,"name":189},"coffee-culture","Culture & Opinion",{"slug":181,"name":182},[185,188,181],53967,{"src":194,"srcset":195,"width":196,"height":197,"alt":198},"\u002Fuploads\u002F3ce49882d8702d3285bd.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Feff7acc45fc848863e12.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F23b77aff376b3b3bcf32.webp 800w, \u002Fuploads\u002F3ce49882d8702d3285bd.webp 1600w",1600,900,"Specialty Coffee Is Now Mainstream. 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