[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":711},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fcoffee-around-world\u002Fthe-paris-coffee-revolution":3,"platform:site":243,"more:\u002Fcoffee-around-world\u002Fthe-paris-coffee-revolution":648},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":166,"category":167,"categorySlugs":178,"cid":179,"cover":180,"description":184,"extension":185,"featured":186,"language":187,"meta":188,"navigation":189,"noindex":186,"ogImage":190,"path":191,"publishedAt":192,"readingMinutes":193,"recipe":166,"related":194,"revisedAt":166,"seo":228,"seoDescription":184,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":166,"sources":229,"stem":233,"tagSlugs":234,"tags":236,"translations":239,"type":240,"url":241,"__hash__":242},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F54268.md","How Paris Learned to Take Coffee Seriously","2026-10-29T17:11:26.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Elliot Green","elliot-green","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":162},"minimark",[15,19,22,25,28,31,40,46,52,57,60,63,66,72,75,78,81,87,90,93,101,106,112,115,118,121,124,127,133,138,146,151,159],[16,17,18],"p",{},"Coffee has deep roots in French culture. Honoré de Balzac reportedly consumed the equivalent of fifty cups a day—though he ate straight grounds rather than drinking the brew. Voltaire, said to down forty-plus cups daily, allegedly retorted to a doctor's warning that coffee was slowly killing him: “Yes, it must be a slow poison, it has been poisoning me for over seventy years!”",[16,20,21],{},"Paris's first café, le Procope, opened in 1686, and café life has been woven into the city's identity ever since. A morning spent lingering over a café au lait on a terrace, watching the city go by, remains a quintessential Parisian experience.",[16,23,24],{},"Yet for all its café culture, Paris long lacked a coffee culture—at least not one concerned with the quality of the liquid itself. Espresso shots were often harsh, bitter, and over-extracted, made from beans supplied by large French industrial roasters. In a country celebrated for its meticulous attention to food and wine, how could the coffee be so poor?",[16,26,27],{},"Until recent years, Paris's coffee reputation was, at best, poor. If atmosphere mattered more than flavor, there was no shortage of coffee to drink while perched on the classic wicker chairs of Parisian cafés. But a genuinely good cup was hard to find.",[16,29,30],{},"Over the past few years, that has changed. Paris now leads the French specialty coffee movement, setting an example for other French cities and for Europe more broadly.",[16,32,33],{},[34,35],"img",{"alt":36,"height":37,"src":38,"width":39},"Obladi_Menu_Brewers",576,"\u002Fuploads\u002F552a44510994dc5993d2.webp",1014,[16,41,42],{},[43,44,45],"em",{},"A California-inspired menu at Ob-La-Di.",[16,47,48],{},[34,49],{"alt":50,"height":37,"src":51,"width":39},"HolyBelly_Exterior","\u002Fuploads\u002F90f523792c72245512fd.webp",[16,53,54],{},[43,55,56],{},"A crowd gathers outside Hollybelly.",[16,58,59],{},"Just a handful of years ago, the scene looked barren, even if it wasn't empty. Before specialty coffee took hold, “you could find an independent roaster in every Parisian district, so it has always been easy to find freshly roasted coffee beans outside of supermarkets,” says Emmanuel Buschiazzo, founder of Réseau des Baristas de France. “However, without any doubt, there was a tendency, even a will, to over-roast what was most generally lower- or mid-range coffee beans. In fact, there was virtually no place in Paris for high-grade, single-origin coffee served by a professional barista until la Caféothèque opened its doors in 2005.” La Caféothèque, with its café and roastery, helped set the revolution in motion, though for several years it remained the only specialty operation in town.",[16,61,62],{},"Roaster l'Arbre à Café arrived in 2009, followed in 2010 by Café Lomi and Coutume. That same year saw the opening of KB Caféshop, one of the first Anglophone-style coffee shops, at the foot of Montmartre. Two years later, in 2012, two more significant players joined the specialty café scene: Télescope and Ten Belles.",[16,64,65],{},"Looking back, 2013 stands out as the year the pace quickened dramatically. That year, several leaders of the Paris specialty coffee scene opened their doors—Loustic, Holybelly, Fondation, Fragments, and the roastery Belleville Brûlerie-Paris among them—welcoming coffee lovers and converting those who had not yet caught the bug. In the short time since, Paris has grown into a thriving specialty coffee capital, something hard to imagine a decade earlier. “We went from the beginnings to an explosion,” says Antoine Nétien of Coutume. “We created a large group of aficionados who will not go back.” Those customers, unwilling to return to bad coffee, will keep seeking out the good stuff, which has benefited new coffee businesses. “I don't think we have ever had as many openings,” Nétien says of the new coffee businesses that launched last year. A few years ago there were only a handful of specialty cafés; today there are co-working cafés, pop-up shops with specialty coffee bars, and food events where the coffee on offer is more than an easy-to-make capsule.",[16,67,68],{},[34,69],{"alt":70,"height":37,"src":71,"width":39},"Coutume_Interior","\u002Fuploads\u002F088e01f68632654c9e47.webp",[16,73,74],{},"A busy day at Coutume.",[16,76,77],{},"Newcomers to the scene can thank that explosion; today the prospects of opening a coffee business are very different from a few years ago. “It would be perhaps a little more acceptable to open a purely coffee-centric shop now,” says Chris Nielson of Fondation, “whereas two or three years ago that kind of concept would have been too foreign.”",[16,79,80],{},"As more coffee-centric places have opened, they have encouraged customers to not only seek out businesses that focus on quality, but also bring that quality into their kitchens. “You see people who say, 'Yes, I have my Chemex,'” says Nétien of Coutume. “You didn't see that before.”",[16,82,83],{},[34,84],{"alt":85,"height":37,"src":86,"width":39},"Craft_Exterior","\u002Fuploads\u002F42278576b72c958833f7.webp",[16,88,89],{},"While it may have taken some time for specialty coffee culture to hit the Parisian streets, given the general French attitude towards good food and wine, there's a great potential for it to stay. “I think what makes the Paris specialty coffee scene unique is really the culture of Paris and France itself. Unlike in many other places, food and flavor have value in this culture, and always have. While the execution of food in France has certainly varied in quality over the decades, the idea that good food and amazing flavors are something worth paying for never has,” says David Nigel Flynn, who along with Thomas Lehoux, launched a series of barista events in 2010 called Frog Fight to generate interest in the coffee community, and later, would open the city's well-loved roastery, Belleville Brûlerie-Paris. “It was always a matter of letting people know that coffee could be something other than burnt and gross; that it could be delicious. It was never a situation of defending the idea of good coffee as something that should be valuable.”",[16,91,92],{},"In other words, it wasn't that Paris wasn't interested in good coffee, it was that no one had ever served it before. Coffee was undrinkable simply because that was how Paris understood coffee to be. “We are reactivating the French palate,” says Nétien. Paris' coffee entrepreneurs aren't just serving up good coffee, they are getting Parisians to rethink what coffee is, and what it can be, and eventually that's going to challenge the larger brands. “When Parisians will fully understand what specialty coffee is, there will be a breach in the wall built by industrial brands,” says Buschiazzo.",[16,94,95],{},[34,96],{"alt":97,"height":98,"src":99,"width":100},"DavidNigelFlynn",707,"\u002Fuploads\u002F35f65832a4cacc8ae622.webp",662,[16,102,103],{},[43,104,105],{},"David Nigel Flynn of Belleville Brûlerie Paris.",[16,107,108],{},[34,109],{"alt":110,"height":37,"src":111,"width":39},"Obladi_MenuLatte","\u002Fuploads\u002F2e27ebebf137f944279f.webp",[16,113,114],{},"The crack in barricade has already begun to widen, and quickly. “When I moved to Paris in 2009, there was really no coffee of great quality, but there was a feeling that Paris was ready for something like this. There was a lot of activity in the restaurant and food scene and a lot of excitement about the renewal of eating here in Paris. You had to think that Paris could be a great coffee city,” says Nigel Flynn. “After Thomas and I started the Frog Fight, we got pretty excited about the potential of Paris as a coffee destination. I've been convinced Paris would become a great coffee city ever since.”",[16,116,117],{},"And a great coffee city it is becoming. “All eyes are on Paris at the moment because there is a sense that the Parisian specialty coffee scene (not to mention France as a whole) will finally explode in the coming years; the expectation is high,” says Buschiazzo.",[16,119,120],{},"What will the next wave of Paris specialty coffee look like? One can hope that it will be a democratization of specialty coffee, that the institutions that have long defined Parisian café culture will also come on board, ensuring not just a cultural experience with ambience, but ensuring the quality in the cup as well. “They don't have a choice,” says Nétien, pointing out that as interest in specialty coffee grows, people will demand better coffee no matter where they are, and in turn, even the traditional cafés will have to change their ways. If they do, Paris has the opportunity to have a truly unique specialty coffee culture, one that is more representative of the iconic café culture that the city is known for.",[16,122,123],{},"Parisian specialty coffee culture began by incorporating elements of specialty coffee from elsewhere—most notably, Australia. Many of the city's café owners, baristas, and roasters have a link to Australia, whether it's traveling, training, living, or actually coming from there. But what started as an outer influence has taken a more local, adapted form, which is exactly what Paris' coffee culture needs if it's going to continue to evolve, and survive. Outside trends come and go, but when a movement is embraced from the inside, it has lasting power. “The coffee shops that brought great coffee to Paris were often a different style of café from the traditional Parisian café, more in the global 'coffee shop' style,” says Nigel Flynn. “I think more and more, the Parisian café ethos is going to seep into the scene.”",[16,125,126],{},"In fact, it's exactly that ethos that makes the Parisian scene special. “This is what makes the Paris specialty coffee scene unique today—a melting pot of traditional French mentality mixed with an Anglo-Saxon flair, and a massive amount of people sitting at the table waiting to see what will result from this brew,” says Buschiazzo.",[16,128,129],{},[34,130],{"alt":131,"height":37,"src":132,"width":39},"Fondation_Interior","\u002Fuploads\u002F604f408f97e84f58de8a.webp",[16,134,135],{},[43,136,137],{},"Fondation.",[16,139,140],{},[34,141],{"alt":142,"height":143,"src":144,"width":145},"10BellesExterior",646,"\u002Fuploads\u002Fc144a4821ba9859faa7c.webp",657,[16,147,148],{},[43,149,150],{},"Ten Belles.",[16,152,153,154,158],{},"What will that brew bring? Now that the groundwork has been laid, there's certainly an opportunity for new roasters. “Paris has too few specialty coffee roasters for a city of this size. The more roasters, the more messengers on the ground to diffuse the good word,” says Buschiazzo. The next wave of Parisian coffee also has the chance to become more specialized; now that the bar has been set for the quality of the coffee itself, coffee entrepreneurs will have to focus on other elements of the business. Nétien sees the potential for baristas functioning more like sommeliers, not just focused on educating the customer about specialty coffee; but given that there's more and more awareness about coffee, also listening to what they like and want. “Depending on your interest, ",[155,156,157],"span",{},"the sommelier"," will give you information,” says Nétien. If you don't know what kind of wine you want, a sommelier will help to guide you in your choice. “We have to do the same with coffee.”",[16,160,161],{},"A lot can happen in a decade, but the complete story of Parisian specialty coffee has yet to be written. The groundwork has been laid, and now we wait to see where the French capital's next steps lead us. 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