[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":684},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fcoffee-around-world\u002Fcoffees-young-turks":3,"platform:site":215,"more:\u002Fcoffee-around-world\u002Fcoffees-young-turks":619},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":138,"category":139,"categorySlugs":150,"cid":151,"cover":152,"description":158,"extension":159,"featured":160,"language":161,"meta":162,"navigation":163,"noindex":160,"ogImage":164,"path":165,"publishedAt":166,"readingMinutes":167,"recipe":138,"related":168,"revisedAt":138,"seo":200,"seoDescription":158,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":138,"sources":201,"stem":205,"tagSlugs":206,"tags":208,"translations":211,"type":212,"url":213,"__hash__":214},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53465.md","Beyond the Spice Bazaar: Istanbul's Specialty Coffee Awakening","2026-11-02T05:14:29.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Jordan Evans","jordan-evans","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":134},"minimark",[15,19,22,31,36,39,45,48,51,54,61,65,71,75,78,81,84,87,90,93,99,103,106,109,115,120,123,131],[16,17,18],"p",{},"To understand how Istanbul's coffee culture spans old and new, Eminönü is the place to begin. Wedged between the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus Strait, this historic quarter sits just downhill from the city's grand mosques and palaces. Commuters hustle toward ferries bound for the Asian side, and gulls wheel above carts selling fish sandwiches and stuffed mussels. The whole district moves at a brisk, restless pace.",[16,20,21],{},"During the twentieth century, instant coffee largely displaced traditional Turkish coffee culture, yet the old practices survive inside the Spice Bazaar, where visitors and residents come to taste Turkish delight and sharp, aromatic spices. For locals, one of the main attractions is Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, a coffee firm founded in 1871. The brand is sold by the tin in grocery stores across the country and beyond, but customers still form long daily queues outside the company's headquarters just beyond the bazaar's west entrance to buy freshly fine-ground coffee. The name is iconic; the beans being roasted, however, are low-grade Brazilian.",[16,23,24],{},[25,26],"img",{"alt":27,"height":28,"src":29,"width":30},"Kurukahveci carries the flame of Turkey's centuries-old coffee culture. Above, Coffeetopia's Şerif and Özlem Başaran are pushing a modern take on coffee.",800,"\u002Fuploads\u002F3763fa5fd81ebda2a15a.webp",1200,[16,32,33],{},[34,35,27],"em",{},[16,37,38],{},"A few blocks toward the magnificent Hagia Sophia, a café called Coffeetopia offers a different vision for Turkish coffee. The counter is lined with manual brewing devices of many kinds, marking the shop as a destination for coffee enthusiasts. The meticulously designed space is the latest undertaking of specialty coffee pioneers Şerif and Özlem Başaran, a husband-and-wife team who have been quietly assembling a coffee business in Turkey since 2007. Şerif fills several roles—consultant, Specialty Coffee Association of Europe-certified instructor, and World Barista Championship technical judge—though most of his time goes to their roasting company, Coffee Factory, which supplies over a hundred cafés in Istanbul. Their wholesale clients run from commercial operations to craft shops, among them Çekirdek, a café in the Kadıköy district that is widely regarded as Istanbul's first specialty coffee shop. Özlem, whose English carries a soft Australian accent, runs Coffeetopia, the Başarans' first move into the Turkish retail market.",[40,41,42],"blockquote",{},[16,43,44],{},"The twentieth century saw traditional Turkish coffee culture largely replaced with instant coffee, but the old ways are still preserved in the Spice Bazaar, where tourists and locals alike go to sample Turkish delight and pungent spices.",[16,46,47],{},"A soft opening during Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting, allowed Özlem and her barista team to settle into operations gradually. The Başarans have a devoted following among home baristas, and they understood their first café would draw close scrutiny. Within under three months, business was already thriving. \"Word of mouth is our best marketing,\" Özlem says. Such rapid popularity is unsurprising given Coffeetopia's combination of location, product, and execution.",[16,49,50],{},"By Istanbul standards, the two-floor café is roomy. The matte black interior pairs well with the embroidered white button-up shirts the baristas wear. Mirrors running the length of the room add a note of refinement, though the Sanremo Opera espresso machine may be the real centerpiece. Şerif worked as a consultant on the Opera alongside coffee professionals such as John Gordon, and he calls it \"a dream machine.\" It offers multiple programmable presets, adjustable flow rate, and scales built into the drip tray. Flanked by two Ditting grinders, the Opera pulls shots of Coffee Factory's espresso blend along with a rotating selection of single-origin coffees. The house blend is thick and syrupy, reminiscent of espresso from Seattle's well-known Espresso Vivace, with dense dark chocolate and caramel flavors. It drinks well on its own, but shines in a cappuccino, prepared Australian style with a dusting of cocoa powder on top.",[16,52,53],{},"In many respects, the Başarans' story mirrors the story of Turkish specialty coffee. The couple entered the industry in 2003 while living in Australia, where they owned a Michel's Espresso franchise. There, Özlem and Şerif were trained by Paul Bassett, who had just been crowned World Barista Champion. The franchise did well, but their path changed sharply when Şerif was asked to assist with a specialty coffee and tea expo in Istanbul. While in Turkey, he spotted a major opening in a developing market. International chains such as Starbucks and Gloria Jean's were expanding quickly across the country, yet the boutique segment remained mostly untapped. The few independent shops that existed were importing coffee from major European brands like Illy and Julius Meinl. The couple sold their shop and set out to build a new business.",[16,55,56],{},[25,57],{"alt":58,"height":59,"src":60,"width":59},"Pour-overs at Petra Roasting in Kanyan mall.",500,"\u002Fuploads\u002Fa17dd3edd6a2e8b22ec3.webp",[16,62,63],{},[34,64,58],{},[16,66,67],{},[25,68],{"alt":69,"height":59,"src":70,"width":59},"Ibriks in an outdoor market.","\u002Fuploads\u002F8f40a4695e3f3bb7a607.webp",[16,72,73],{},[34,74,69],{},[16,76,77],{},"At first, the obstacles were numerous. Turkey lacked basic barista equipment such as tampers and milk pitchers, so Şerif worked with local fabricators to produce them. Local baristas, though, were resistant to change. They preferred heating milk in Turkish coffee pots and tamping with the attachment on the coffee grinder. These methods produced burnt milk and unevenly extracted espresso, yet baristas defended the tamping practice by noting it was common in Italy. \"You can't say the Italians are wrong,\" Şerif says with a chuckle.",[16,79,80],{},"Two significant developments reshaped the scene. In 2008, the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe named Şerif \"Most Passionate Coffee Educator.\" Recognition from an international body of coffee professionals gave him credibility and helped establish his reputation as a coffee expert. Momentum grew further with the arrival of officially sanctioned barista competitions. \"The competitions helped a lot because the baristas had to follow the rules,\" Şerif says. He has himself become a regular presence at international barista competitions, serving as a technical judge at the past four World Barista Championships.",[16,82,83],{},"The influence of those competitions is easiest to see at Geyik Coffee Roastery and Cocktail Bar. Geyik—Turkish for deer—was founded by Serkan İpekli, the 2013 Turkish Barista Champion. İpekli had previously worked for Coffee Factory before leaving to help their wholesale client A Cup of Joy launch a new café. After representing Turkey at the 2013 World Barista Championship in Melbourne, İpekli set about opening his own place in Cihangir, the artistic and cultural neighborhood across the Golden Horn from Eminönü.",[16,85,86],{},"The narrow, shotgun-style room is only a little bigger than a hallway, but that doesn't keep İpekli from roasting all his coffee in-house on a two-kilo Has Garanti roaster. İpekli, who sources Geyik's green coffee in partnership with Coffee Factory, relishes experimenting with different roast profiles and blends. Inspired by Athens's Tailor Made, Geyik turns into a cocktail bar at night, with a menu of classic cocktails curated by İpekli's business partner Yağmur Engin.",[16,88,89],{},"If Istanbul's old-city mosques and bazaars represent Turkey's Ottoman heritage, the shopping mall is unquestionably the emblem of modern Turkey. Istanbul has held the title of Europe's largest mall for nearly a decade, but the sheer count of malls is more striking than their size. Nearly every subway stop has its own shopping center, and they all seem to be filled with shoppers ready to spend. Kanyon, one of this staggering number of malls, sits in the heart of Istanbul's financial district and has carved out a niche in luxury goods. Whether it's Danny Meyer's international venture Shake Shack or the English department store Harvey Nichols, Kanyon is where refined Istanbulites shop, eat, and even exercise. Just inside the main entrance, Petra Roasting has installed a ground-breaking new kiosk.",[16,91,92],{},"Against a sea of glass and concrete, the wooden kiosk stands out in the foreground. The simple structure offers an even simpler menu: filter coffee and espresso drinks, take-away only. Espresso at the Petra kiosk comes from a well-polished La Marzocco Linea positioned perpendicular to a row of Hario V60s. A Mazzer Robur and a Baratza Forté keep the coffee freshly ground. The kiosk began as a pop-up, but its unexpected popularity has led to plans to keep it open year round. The open-air format introduces thousands of people each day to specialty coffee, most of whom have never seen a pour-over device. Petra, whose roastery is in nearby Gayrettepe, has also gained some international attention recently. Founder Kaan Bergsen, who learned the trade while living in New York, placed fourth at the World Coffee Roasting Championship in Rimini, Italy.",[16,94,95],{},[25,96],{"alt":97,"height":28,"src":98,"width":30},"Geyik Coffee Roastery and Cocktail Bar.","\u002Fuploads\u002F726b56a20b4413f8155b.webp",[16,100,101],{},[34,102,97],{},[16,104,105],{},"\"Our philosophy is to roast in small batches,\" explains barista Cem Bozkuş. \"We always trust our palates and check the quality in every stage.\" Petra currently sources coffee through partnerships with InterAmerican and Nordic Approach. Sourcing through foreign coffee importers is less cost efficient, yet the choice is widespread among Turkey's quality-focused roasters. For micro roasters, it is the only route to world-class green coffee, though Turkish customs red tape can be a difficult hurdle. \"You always can have problems with laws and customs in Turkey,\" Bozkuş says.",[16,107,108],{},"Local roaster Kronotrop is making a similar leap into the mainstream. Visitors to its Cihangir café will find a space on par with the finest shops in New York or London. Black and white Anatolian tiles line a counter holding an impressive array of equipment, including a La Marzocco Strada EP, a Mahlkönig EK-43, and massive Japanese cold-brew towers. The luminous atmosphere draws an urbane clientele, but what truly distinguishes Kronotrop is its drive to source and roast the finest coffees it can. To that end, founder and head roaster Çağatay Gülabioğlu recently teamed up with renowned chef Mehmet Gürs and his Istanbul Food and Beverage Group. Through the partnership with Gürs, Gülabioğlu has been able to equip a state-of-the-art roasting facility complete with Turkey's first Loring S15 Falcon roaster, which recently arrived from America. The roaster gives Gülabioğlu greater control over his roasts, including the ability to duplicate previous profiles. Like Petra, Kronotrop contends with Turkey's strict importing restrictions, but thanks to the American importer Ninety Plus, Gülabioğlu has been able to roast some of the highest quality coffees on the market. A wider audience now enjoys their wares, since Kronotrop is served in all of Gürs's restaurants, including the award-winning Mikla. Despite these considerable advances, Gülabioğlu keeps his focus on the future. \"Our ultimate goal is to source our own coffee and to go to the farms.\"",[16,110,111],{},[25,112],{"alt":113,"height":28,"src":114,"width":30},"Petra Roasting in Kanyan mall.","\u002Fuploads\u002F6e51d39ee263720fd9cc.webp",[16,116,117],{},[34,118,119],{},"Petra Roasting in Kanyon mall.",[16,121,122],{},"A man walks into Kronotrop's Cihangir café. After scanning the menu he asks, \"Do you have any tea?\" The tattooed barista responds, \"Unfortunately we don't have tea. We do have coffee.\" The potential customer quietly leaves with a shrug, revealing one of the greatest challenges the fledgling coffee community in Istanbul faces: Turkish tea.",[16,124,125,130],{},[25,126],{"alt":127,"height":59,"src":128,"width":129},"Coffeetopia_Exterior","\u002Fuploads\u002Fb2fb2b2bc86be917fc13.webp",367,"With the collapse of the Ottoman Empire after World War I and the founding of the republic in 1923, drinking tea became a matter of national stability. Previously, Turks acquired their coffee from Yemen, which was under Ottoman rule. Overnight, coffee became an international import, which for the isolationist, infant nation was an unaffordable luxury compared to domestically produced tea, which is grown in the mountains along the Black Sea coast. Although coffee consumption continued, it shifted to an occasional after-dinner treat, as compared to the daily morning ritual of other coffee drinking countries. Most Turks enjoy six to eight glasses of black tea a day, earning Turkey a spot as one of the highest per-capita tea consuming countries in the world. At the going rate of roughly thirty-eight cents a glass, tea is also a far cheaper option than coffee, which commands a similar price in Turkey as in Western countries.",[16,132,133],{},"Even so, the Young Turks building this new specialty coffee culture remain optimistic about what lies ahead. As European visa restrictions are being lifted, a growing number of Turks are traveling abroad and developing a taste for specialty coffee. Likewise, the booming economy in Turkey is creating a growing middle class, with expendable income for food and drink. \"This is a new concept, but we like it,\" Şerif Başaran says. With their first shop only a few months old, a second store is in the works, with the possibility of further expansion. Özlem Başaran says, \"The reaction of the customer is our motivation.\" If current momentum continues, the Başarans won't have to look far for more inspiration.",{"title":135,"searchDepth":136,"depth":136,"links":137},"",2,[],null,{"slug":140,"name":141,"path":142},"coffee-around-world","Coffee Around the World",[143,146,149],{"slug":144,"name":145},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":147,"name":148},"coffee-culture","Culture & Opinion",{"slug":140,"name":141},[144,147,140],53465,{"src":153,"srcset":154,"width":155,"height":156,"alt":157},"\u002Fuploads\u002Fdb9512c66e6d511cde20.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Fd3f83106a8df257634df.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002Fc4f218b76bb34255fd7b.webp 800w, \u002Fuploads\u002Fdb9512c66e6d511cde20.webp 1142w",1142,660,"Coffee’s Young Turks","How a tight-knit group of roasters in Istanbul is building a craft coffee scene on the foundations of Turkey's centuries-old brewing 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