[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":730},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fclimate-environment\u002Fcan-darjeeling-tea-hope-for-a-climate-resilient-future":3,"platform:site":214,"more:\u002Fclimate-environment\u002Fcan-darjeeling-tea-hope-for-a-climate-resilient-future":666},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":134,"category":135,"categorySlugs":146,"cid":147,"cover":148,"description":154,"extension":155,"featured":156,"language":157,"meta":158,"navigation":159,"noindex":156,"ogImage":160,"path":161,"publishedAt":162,"readingMinutes":163,"recipe":134,"related":164,"revisedAt":134,"seo":199,"seoDescription":154,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":134,"sources":200,"stem":204,"tagSlugs":205,"tags":207,"translations":210,"type":211,"url":212,"__hash__":213},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53693.md","Darjeeling Tea Growers Confront Climate Shifts with Adaptive Methods","2026-10-20T11:21:10.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Reese Ross","reese-ross","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":127},"minimark",[15,19,22,25,28,33,36,39,48,53,56,59,62,65,68,71,74,78,81,84,92,96,99,102,105,108,112,115,118,121,124],[16,17,18],"p",{},"When Rishi Saria, a former tech professional, acquired the Rohini and Gopaldhara tea estates in Darjeeling in 2004, one of his earliest moves was to install an irrigation system. Although he was motivated by the poor soil at Rohini, the decision would prove prescient given the climate-related difficulties that the northeastern Indian hill district—celebrated for producing what is often called the “Champagne of teas”—would encounter in the following decades.",[16,20,21],{},"Tea bushes require a balance of moderate sunlight and gentle rainfall spread across the year to thrive. Yet over the past ten years, Darjeeling has experienced record summer temperatures, intense monsoon downpours and landslides, and extended dry periods in autumn and winter. To buffer against these irregular weather patterns, gardens such as Saria’s Rohini and Gopaldhara have turned to irrigation.",[16,23,24],{},"“It was unnecessary in Darjeeling even two decades ago, but now we are watering the plants to prevent them from getting too stressed during the first flush [spring harvest],” Saria explains. In the absence of irrigation during the drought-prone winters, the first-flush crop becomes banji—the bush produces oversized leaves with little to no flavor.",[16,26,27],{},"Some tea gardens benefit from natural water bodies that run through their land, while those without such sources have had to invest additionally in rainwater harvesting. “It is becoming a necessity now because mountain streams tend to dry out in the winter,” notes Anshuman Kanoria, owner of the Goomtee tea estate.",[29,30,32],"h2",{"id":31},"drought-tolerant-clones","Drought-Tolerant Clones",[16,34,35],{},"In response to these pressures, certain estates are testing tea clones bred for climate resilience. These clones, developed by India’s oldest and largest tea research institute, the Tocklai Tea Research Association, are tolerant of drought and offer high yield potential. However, planters report that they do not deliver the full range of flavors and aromas found in tea from the Camellia sinensis plant.",[16,37,38],{},"Originally from southeastern China, the China bush—as this small-leafed variety is commonly called by Darjeeling planters—was first introduced to India and sown in Darjeeling by British planters in the mid-1800s. It adapted well to the hill district’s cool climate and soil and still constitutes the majority of the region’s tea crop today.",[16,40,41],{},[42,43],"img",{"alt":44,"height":45,"src":46,"width":47},"Gopaldhara tea estate.",639,"\u002Fuploads\u002Ffa63cd81bc56625f3c7c.webp",960,[16,49,50],{},[51,52,44],"em",{},[16,54,55],{},"The Camellia sinensis plant can be processed into green, black, white, and oolong teas, but in Darjeeling the British used it to make black tea, as the region’s terroir gave the spring and summer harvests, known as flushes, a distinctive bouquet of flavors and aromas. After India’s independence, estate owners continued to favor black tea because of demand from Japanese and European buyers.",[16,57,58],{},"The drought-resistant clones developed by Tocklai are typically hybrids of tea bushes grown in Assam. That northeastern Indian state produces black tea from a variant of the Camellia sinensis plant, yielding a beverage with much stronger flavors than the more delicate Darjeeling teas. Even when vegetatively propagated from the China bush or from hybrids of the Assam and China bushes, tea clones lack the unique flavor profile of Darjeeling tea.",[16,60,61],{},"“What defines Darjeeling tea is the muscatel flavor produced by the China bush,” Kanoria says. “A clonal bush has a very typical taste profile and certainly won’t produce a muscatel. So if everything in Darjeeling becomes clonal, that distinct muscatel flavor will be lost.”",[16,63,64],{},"At the Okayti tea estate, garden manager Pankaj Choubey has recently planted 30–35 hectares of the 230-hectare garden with a drought-resistant tea clone. Yet he too sees an advantage in the China bush: it can develop deep taproots that reach 6–10 feet underground to access water and nutrients, which is important for the plant’s health. The roots of most tea clones extend only 2–3.5 feet deep.",[16,66,67],{},"The challenge is that many of Darjeeling’s China bushes are mature and therefore less able to withstand extreme weather. “Tea is a perennial crop but droughts, floods, and pest diseases mean plants get weaker over time, and how long can the same bush keep giving you yields?” Saria observes.",[16,69,70],{},"At Rohini, Saria has devoted a few hectares to a clonal variant that flushes earlier than the China bush. This enables him to obtain a first-flush crop as early as mid-January, two months before the harvest begins on other estates. It also lets him take advantage of the cooler days that are ideal for the first flush. Rather than relying on clones as a climate-mitigation strategy, however, Saria is also planting China bush seeds in vacant areas of the Gopaldhara estate.",[16,72,73],{},"“The British planters did not make optimum use of space, planting only 8,000–10,000 bushes per hectare,” he points out. “Now when replanting, we are planting close to 20,000–22,000 bushes per hectare.” By the end of this year, he plans to cover about 7–8 hectares with China bush seedlings, which he hopes will replenish his garden in the next five to seven years.",[29,75,77],{"id":76},"going-organic-and-lowering-carbon","Going Organic and Lowering Carbon",[16,79,80],{},"Another shift that bodes well for Darjeeling’s estates is the move toward organic cultivation. Data from the Darjeeling Tea Association shows that, as of 2021, 50 of the 74 estates then in operation had gone organic. For some, the change came early, after Germany—one of Darjeeling tea’s biggest importers—rejected a shipment of teas in 1995, citing high pesticide residue levels.",[16,82,83],{},"At Okayti, Choubey began implementing organic practices as early as the 2003–04 season. He gradually reduced the use of chemical fertilizers in favor of organic manure such as cow dung and cut back on pesticides before transitioning to a fully organic garden in 2009. “By easing into it, we ensured that our plants didn’t go into shock and could acclimate to organic inputs over time,” Choubey says.",[16,85,86],{},[42,87],{"alt":88,"height":89,"src":90,"width":91},"First flush plucking at Rohini.",768,"\u002Fuploads\u002F3426c9c626f223189c38.webp",1024,[16,93,94],{},[51,95,88],{},[16,97,98],{},"Over the years, he has observed improvements in the garden’s soil quality and the health of its plants. “Because of higher-than-usual temperatures, we are seeing a lot more pest attacks, but plants in organic gardens like ours are able to resist these attacks better,” Choubey explains. “Organic gardens also support small predators that prey on pests, like tea mosquito bugs and looper caterpillars. In a non-organic garden, pesticides kill the predators as well.”",[16,100,101],{},"Climate change is also prompting estate owners to reconsider workers’ living conditions. When Kanoria bought Goomtee in 2021, one of his first actions was to provide cooking gas connections to workers’ homes. This freed workers from dependence on firewood and the health hazards associated with it. Because workers collected firewood by cutting trees from forest patches inside the estate, the move also helped conserve the tea garden’s biodiversity. Other tea estates have similarly switched to non-polluting fuel sources for their factories.",[16,103,104],{},"Nevertheless, adopting climate-mitigation strategies is increasingly difficult for estates already operating at a loss. Kanoria estimates that “most Darjeeling gardens are losing almost Rs 200 ($2.3) per kilogram of tea, which means each garden is losing a few crores [more than $100,000] per year.”",[16,106,107],{},"The industry is surviving on owners, especially those with deeper pockets, absorbing these losses, he warns. For some time, estate owners have sought government interventions such as subsidies and cash injections, but have received none.",[29,109,111],{"id":110},"are-innovations-the-way-forward","Are Innovations the Way Forward?",[16,113,114],{},"Without government support, some estates are making a last-ditch effort to raise revenue through new product offerings. Traditionally, Darjeeling’s tea gardens concentrated on orthodox (whole-leaf) black teas, with first- and second-flush teas commanding premium prices. “A decent Darjeeling cup can fetch Rs 3,000-5,000 ($34–54) per kilo while a high-end cup can go up to Rs 10,000-12,000 ($115–138),” says Saria. But with export markets shrinking and climate change affecting the delicate flavors of first- and second-flush teas, these premiums are becoming uncertain.",[16,116,117],{},"At the Selim Hill tea estate, third-generation planter Sparsh Agarwal is innovating with long-neglected monsoon and autumn flushes, which make up nearly 70% of a garden’s yearly produce but currently only go into low-priced blends. He double-roasts the mahogany-colored monsoon flush to give it a smoky flavor, while the autumn flush is processed to emphasize its “floral and fragrant [notes] with hints of jasmine.” Agarwal prices these teas to appeal to Indian consumers, many of whom find premium Darjeeling teas unaffordable.",[16,119,120],{},"Saria has taken a different route, transitioning parts of Rohini and Gopaldhara to produce green, white, and oolong teas. Gopaldhara’s Emerald Darjeeling Green Tea is made from the autumn flush of Yabukita bushes brought over from Japan, while the Umami White Oolong is made from clones of the same bushes. Saria has also upgraded the technology used to process tea in his factories.",[16,122,123],{},"With its delicate flavors, Darjeeling tea needs equipment that is gentler than the cumbersome British rollers—machines used to press the tea leaves to break their cell walls and release juices crucial for developing flavor, which continue to be used in Darjeeling—he says. “Instead of the 36- to 48-inch rollers used by most estates, we use smaller machines that roll [the leaves] more delicately. We’ve also designed our oxidization machines such that leaves don’t break easily, which would otherwise lead to loss of aroma and a harsher flavor.”",[16,125,126],{},"As climate change alters Darjeeling’s tea gardens and tests the celebrated qualities of its tea, such innovations could become a crucial mitigation strategy for years to come.",{"title":128,"searchDepth":129,"depth":129,"links":130},"",2,[131,132,133],{"id":31,"depth":129,"text":32},{"id":76,"depth":129,"text":77},{"id":110,"depth":129,"text":111},null,{"slug":136,"name":137,"path":138},"climate-environment","Climate & Environment",[139,142,145],{"slug":140,"name":141},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":143,"name":144},"coffee-sustainability","Sustainability & Trade",{"slug":136,"name":137},[140,143,136],53693,{"src":149,"srcset":150,"width":151,"height":152,"alt":153},"\u002Fuploads\u002F89613105eef46c1dc2db.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Fb62149c64e592dc02086.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F8098af1ce3632f18795f.webp 800w, 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