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The downpour around Volcán Barú in eastern Panama had soaked the coatless into a sodden mess, even though the jungle canopy overhead was mostly intact. The climb itself, capped by a final twenty yards that forced us to brace our hands on our knees and push through burning thighs, had turned the raincoats into portable saunas. 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What I wanted was to get up the mountain to Boot’s farm. The journey involved an overnight bus ride whose wheels I was not entirely sure stayed on the ground, a shorter bus leg, and then a four-wheel-drive bus trip that a muddy road cut short—after which we hiked.",[16,67,69],{"id":68},"a-lecture-in-two-languages-under-a-tin-roof","A Lecture in Two Languages Under a Tin Roof",[21,71,72],{},"Standing under the tin roof, we caught our breath in a house whose every plank and pound of concrete had been carried up the mountain by men, women, and mules. Almost none of the farm was visible. Boot delivered part of his improvised lecture in English, translated himself into Spanish, then gestured toward a hillside less than forty yards away—where there was only mist and the shadows of tree trunks. 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