[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":879},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fasia-pacific\u002Fcontemporary-indonesian-specialty-coffee-a-chat-with-three-coffee-processors":3,"platform:site":361,"more:\u002Fasia-pacific\u002Fcontemporary-indonesian-specialty-coffee-a-chat-with-three-coffee-processors":815},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":285,"category":286,"categorySlugs":297,"cid":298,"cover":299,"description":305,"extension":306,"featured":307,"language":308,"meta":309,"navigation":310,"noindex":307,"ogImage":311,"path":312,"publishedAt":313,"readingMinutes":314,"recipe":285,"related":315,"revisedAt":285,"seo":348,"seoDescription":305,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":285,"sources":349,"stem":353,"tagSlugs":354,"tags":355,"translations":357,"type":358,"url":359,"__hash__":360},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53379.md","From Cherry to Cup: Three Indonesian Processors on Progress and Pressures","2026-10-20T11:20:46.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Reese Scott","reese-scott","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":278},"minimark",[15,19,22,25,31,36,39,42,45,48,60,67,70,77,85,88,91,96,103,106,110,113,119,122,129,132,139,142,147,150,154,157,160,163,166,174,178,197,204,211,214,228,237,240,247,254,257,272,275],[16,17,18],"p",{},"Five years had passed since my last trip home to Indonesia. When I finally went back last summer, the plan was simply to visit family and friends. Yet the journey turned into a coffee-origin trip anyway, and I was deeply thankful for that.",[16,20,21],{},"With help from Drew Burnett and Jen Green—two coffee professionals who have long lived in Jakarta—I toured several farms and met producers as well as post-harvest processors. In Indonesia, processors are the owners or managers of washing stations who purchase whole coffee cherries from farmers; some of them also operate their own farms. These processors are producing clean, delicate coffees that challenge the country's reputation—shaped largely by Sumatra, the island responsible for 70% of Indonesian arabica—for heavy, earthy cups.",[16,23,24],{},"During the trip I stopped at a number of small farms and roasteries in Java and Bali. Compared with my visit half a decade earlier, the specialty scene struck me as transformed. Still, the work of improving Indonesian specialty coffee has been underway for roughly two decades, and producers continue to face obstacles. The three farmers and post-harvest processors I met agreed to Zoom interviews. We talked about the gains brought by Indonesia's emergence as both a specialty-producing and a specialty-consuming region, and about the difficulties farms have faced this year, including inflation and lower crop yields.",[16,26,27],{},[28,29,30],"em",{},"(Note: the interviews were conducted in Indonesian. The quotes have been translated and lightly edited for clarity.)",[32,33,35],"h2",{"id":34},"klasik-beans","Klasik Beans",[16,37,38],{},"Any discussion of specialty coffee in Java—or arguably in Indonesia as a whole—has to include Klasik Beans. Based in Puntang, West Java, the co-op was among the country's early specialty-processing pioneers. In the later 2000s, Klasik revived historic but abandoned coffee-growing areas such as Puntang and trained local farmers, helping to set off Indonesia's specialty coffee boom.",[16,40,41],{},"Uden Banu, who manages quality control and operations at Klasik, welcomed us during our visit and showed us around the facility.",[16,43,44],{},"Banu has known Klasik founder Eko Purnomowidi (whom we both call Pak Eko) since childhood. Purnomowidi was a close friend of Banu's parents, and the two later worked together at Volcafe in Medan, a key coffee hub in Sumatra. Medan is where Banu learned the trade: how to dry coffee properly, how to sort with a gravity table, and how to roast and prepare samples for cupping.",[16,46,47],{},"Klasik's story began around 2006. In the early days, the team—assisted by local search-and-rescue volunteers—traveled across West Java looking for areas with growing potential. The land around Puntang, where Klasik is now located, was originally slated to become a vegetable farm. The co-op persuaded the farmers to replant coffee instead, promising there would be market demand, and then spent most of 2007 advising and guiding producers on farming practices. \"We hadn't yet purchased coffee in 2007,\" Banu tells me.",[16,49,50,51,55,56,59],{},"Alongside that guidance, Klasik pledged to pay more for coffee cherries. \"To give you an idea,\" Banu says, \"in 2008, coffee cherries were selling at Rp. 1,500\u002Fkg ",[52,53,54],"span",{},"US$0.10\u002Fkg or US$0.04\u002Flb in today's exchange rates",".\" That was hardly an incentive to replant coffee. That year, though, Klasik paid Rp. 5,000\u002Fkg ",[52,57,58],{},"US$0.33\u002Fkg or US$0.15\u002Flb",", on the condition that farmers picked only ripe cherries.",[16,61,62,63,66],{},"Education and knowledge-sharing with local producers have always been central to Klasik's approach. \"To take a small example, in 2008, 2009, farmers were still buying coffee seeds,\" Banu says, which meant farmers were not self-sufficient enough to plant new trees using their own seedlings. \"Once we entered ",[52,64,65],{},"West Java",",\" Banu continues, \"we taught them how to build nurseries and choose good seedlings.\"",[16,68,69],{},"\"It's only at the end of 2008, if I'm not mistaken, that we started processing, and our first export took place in 2009.\" Sweet Maria's, Intelligentsia, and Allegro Coffee Roasters were among Klasik's first American buyers. \"The local market hadn't really formed at that time,\" says Banu.",[16,71,72,73,76],{},"Predictably enough, local Indonesian roasters only became interested in the co-op after US third-wave roasteries had bought green coffee from Klasik. \"For us,\" Banu says, \"local and export sales ",[52,74,75],{},"at this point"," are fairly equal—60% local, 40% export—though there is more local consumption.\"",[16,78,79],{},[80,81],"img",{"alt":5,"height":82,"src":83,"width":84},768,"\u002Fuploads\u002F4741b14124ad28cd271d.webp",1024,[16,86,87],{},"Conservation and reforestation are essential to Klasik's mission. The co-op's website describes its coffees as \"100% deforestation-free,\" and that commitment shapes how it approaches farming and processing. Over the years, Purnomowidi has advised other farms and co-ops on environmentally friendly growing practices, including Cafe Brisa Serena, an East Timor co-op I greatly admire.",[16,89,90],{},"Many farms this year have been hit by fertilizer price increases linked to the war in Ukraine. That has not been a problem for Klasik, Banu says, because the co-op uses very little fertilizer: \"For us, fertilizer is not an issue. In West Java, fertilizer price is low on our list of problems because we rarely use it.\"",[16,92,93],{},[80,94],{"alt":5,"height":82,"src":95,"width":84},"\u002Fuploads\u002Ff57d09d5a55aa4061da9.webp",[16,97,98,99,102],{},"Even so, 2022 has been a difficult year for Klasik. According to Banu, \"the foremost problem on the ground is the drop in harvest yield.\" He points to two factors: \"One is rainfall, the other more significant factor is the five-year cycle ",[52,100,101],{},"of the coffee plants","—I believe in that.\" Because 2016 and 2017 were tremendous harvest years, Banu reasons that the trees would experience five years of declining yield, with 2022 the low point.",[16,104,105],{},"That five-year cycle may be a key factor, but the rainfall Indonesia received this year—30% above average—is hardly insignificant. As we'll see, other coffee farms have been affected even more drastically.",[32,107,109],{"id":108},"java-halu-coffee-farm","Java Halu Coffee Farm",[16,111,112],{},"When I met Rani Mayasari in 2016, she was an active cafe owner with branches of her shop, Yellow Black, across the country. Today she concentrates entirely on farming and processing as proprietor of Java Halu Coffee Farm. I had the chance not only to cup her current harvest but also to see her processing station.",[16,114,115],{},[80,116],{"alt":5,"height":84,"src":117,"width":118},"\u002Fuploads\u002F951ddeff404b9bcce229.webp",460,[16,120,121],{},"Mayasari comes from Gunung Halu, a coffee-growing area west of Bandung, the capital of West Java. As a cafe owner, she initially knew nothing about farming or roasting. Her first venture into green coffee sourcing was simply a way to secure a yearly supply of beans for her shop. \"I started visiting farms and meeting producers,\" she says. In 2014 she acquired her first farm: a one-hectare plot in Gunung Halu.",[16,123,124,125,128],{},"Nearly 80% of the farm laborers Mayasari works with are women. \"There are a lot of women in the fields,\" she says, \"because West Bandung is a source of female migrant workers ",[52,126,127],{},"TKW\u002FTenaga Kerja Wanita—the official Indonesian term, literally \"female labor\u002Fworkforce\"","\". Many women who take domestic work abroad are younger; those in their 40s or approaching that age tend to remain in their home villages and become farm laborers.",[16,130,131],{},"Production over the past year has also been hard for Mayasari. Beyond general inflation, she has had to cope with a considerable drop in overall crop yield. With fewer coffee cherries available to buy from other farmers, she faced great uncertainty about whether she could fulfill orders.",[16,133,134,135,138],{},"\"As a result,\" Mayasari laments, \"many speculators came and ruined the stock of cherries ",[52,136,137],{},"in West Java",". For instance, coffee companies from Medan purchased green beans from West Java to be brought back to Medan to fulfill their own contracts.\" As a result, local Javanese processors had even less access to cherries.",[16,140,141],{},"The cherries that remain available carry a steep price. Last year, Mayasari could buy cherries from other West Java farmers at a maximum of Rp.9,000\u002Fkg (US$0.60\u002Fkg or US$0.27\u002Flb). This year prices rose sharply, to about Rp.16,000\u002Fkg (US$1.07\u002Fkg or US$0.49\u002Flb). \"It takes 7kg of coffee cherries to produce 1kg of green beans,\" she explains, \"so it already costs over Rp.100,000\u002Fkg (US$6.67 or $3.03\u002Flb) to produce the raw material.\"",[16,143,144],{},[80,145],{"alt":5,"height":84,"src":146,"width":82},"\u002Fuploads\u002F6f583d05f4de8d8c8a57.webp",[16,148,149],{},"Specialty processors like Mayasari have had to sell their green coffee at higher prices. She grimly estimates that no one is making money this year. Even if farmers can obtain a high price for their cherries, that does not offset the steep decline in crop yield. \"We are already feeling the effects of global warming,\" she says. \"Seeing how rain and precipitation have become uncertain, we have to learn again from nature—when to plant, when to nurse and fertilize, etc.\"",[32,151,153],{"id":152},"tuang-coffee","Tuang Coffee",[16,155,156],{},"Andre Hamboer is founder and operator of Tuang Coffee—\"Tuang\" means \"pour\" in Indonesian. Alongside running a Jakarta cafe of the same name, Hamboer is a processor concentrating on coffees from the Manggarai regency on Flores, an island in central Indonesia.",[16,158,159],{},"Followers of coffee competitions may already know Tuang. Mikael Jasin, the 2020 Indonesian barista champion from Common Grounds and the experimental processing company Catur, used Manggarai lots processed with Tuang in his routine for the 2021 World Barista Championship in Milan.",[16,161,162],{},"Hamboer grew up in Jakarta, but his father often took him to Ruteng, a city in Flores where his father is from. Set in the highlands of Manggarai Regency, the town sits within a central coffee farming region on the island. As a child, Hamboer remembered his father always bringing dark-roasted ground Flores coffee back to Jakarta as gifts.",[16,164,165],{},"As an adult working under stress as a corporate lawyer, Hamboer grew more curious about coffee production in Manggarai. In 2014 he eventually left his law firm and moved into coffee processing.",[16,167,168],{},[80,169],{"alt":170,"height":171,"src":172,"width":173},"Andre Hamboer (right) of Tuang Coffee",540,"\u002Fuploads\u002Fbdfa14db4ca957d621dd.webp",810,[16,175,176],{},[28,177,170],{},[16,179,180,181,186,187,192,193,196],{},"Starting out, Hamboer confronted an immediate problem in Manggarai: intermediaries ",[52,182,183],{},[28,184,185],{},"tengkulak"," dominated the coffee market and were everywhere. They often lowballed farmers through an exploitative rural credit system ",[52,188,189],{},[28,190,191],{},"ijon",". ",[28,194,195],{},"Ijon"," essentially gives farmers loans repaid through their future crops at a low price.",[16,198,199,200,203],{},"\"When I asked how much the coffee cherries were selling for,\" Hamboer says, \"I said, 'are you serious—how could it be that cheap?'\" Asked how much cherries sold for in 2014, Hamboer replies: \"Rp. 2,000\u002Fliter ",[52,201,202],{},"US$0.13\u002Fliter",".\" In Manggarai, cherries are usually sold by volume rather than by weight.",[16,205,206,207,210],{},"\"So I tried to set up something fair to the farmers. They're the ones doing the planting; they're the ones nursing ",[52,208,209],{},"the plants",". If they're not happy financially, I wouldn't feel good.\" Fortunately, cherry prices are much better these days (about Rp.10,000\u002Fliter).",[16,212,213],{},"Intermediaries are embedded in every stage of travel in the region—in villages and on the roads to larger towns—taking a cut of coffee profits along the way. Their methods are made possible by how hard it is to travel from a farm in the region to a washing station or a larger town like Ruteng. By comparison, Mayasari needs thirty minutes to reach the farms from her washing station, and sixty to ninety minutes from her warehouse in West Bandung. In Manggarai, getting from his washing station in Ruteng to farms can take Hamboer three to six hours.",[16,215,216,217,220,221,224,225,227],{},"These logistical difficulties leave farmers struggling to find direct buyers—which is where intermediaries step in. \"Access to buyers is what ",[52,218,219],{},"the farmers"," don't have,\" Hamboer points out. \"For transportation, they could rent a share taxi ",[52,222,223],{},"angkot—short for 'angkutan kota'\u002F'city transport'"," or a truck. But they don't know who they can sell to. Even the people who stand guard in front of the shops in Ruteng are themselves intermediaries. So the ",[28,226,191],{}," system is already very entrenched there.\"",[16,229,230,231,236],{},"Hamboer's solution was to establish his own farmers' group ",[52,232,233],{},[28,234,235],{},"kelompok tani"," for Tuang. He started with 40 farmers from a village called Biting, a 3.5-hour drive from Ruteng. Working with his own farmers' group let Hamboer buy cherries directly and offer farmers suggestions on improving crop quality and consistency.",[16,238,239],{},"Quality and yield have improved considerably for Tuang, but obstacles remain, including the general decline in crop production and unstable price swings. Alongside heavy rainfall, farmers encountered an insidious form of price manipulation this year.",[16,241,242,243,246],{},"Hamboer explains that the situation grew out of the high prices cherries fetched this year: \"Many people 'promised' farmers to purchase ",[52,244,245],{},"cherries"," at a high price. But they end up only purchasing one bag, which can consist of 50 or 60 liters of cherries. The farmers, of course, hope that the remaining cherries will be bought at the same price—let's say a farmer could harvest ten bags of cherries. But in the end, only one bag is purchased, the rest sits and rots in storage. So there are definitely parties who are gaming the system.\"",[16,248,249,250,253],{},"The promise of a high purchase price—sometimes as high as Rp.17,000\u002Fliter ",[52,251,252],{},"US$1.13\u002Fliter","—would put many smaller companies and processors in a position where they could not afford the cherries. Farmers, moreover, would hold on to the cherries rather than sell to other parties, only to be left with rotting crops that could not be sold to anyone else.",[16,255,256],{},"This year's inflated cherry price could drive small companies and processors away from Manggarai by the next harvest season. With competition reduced, the few remaining larger companies could then resume lowballing farmers by lowering cherry prices again.",[16,258,259,260,263,264,267,268,271],{},"For Hamboer, a specialty focus is one way to work around high cherry prices: \"Since we work directly with farmers, we cut through the ",[52,261,262],{},"supply"," chain quite a lot. So we're confident in paying however much the asking price is, as long as it's still reasonable and not suddenly skyrocketing. If we calculate the cherry prices ",[52,265,266],{},"and consider processing the coffees"," for export or hyper-specialty market, and the margins look okay, we will buy ",[52,269,270],{},"the cherries from the farmers",".\"",[16,273,274],{},"As I flew back to Chicago, ready to return to the everyday rhythm of running my roastery, I reflected on how much encouraging change I had seen. Jakarta, my hometown, is a noisy, traffic-choked metropolis. Time spent at the rural, much quieter coffee farms made me feel reconnected to my birthplace in a different way, cottagecore daydreams included.",[16,276,277],{},"There is still so much work to do in Indonesia, and climate change poses a real threat to coffee growing there. Supporting smaller processors like Klasik, Java Halu, and Tuang—who are on the ground year-round dealing with the reality of a warming planet—feels more urgent than ever.",{"title":279,"searchDepth":280,"depth":280,"links":281},"",2,[282,283,284],{"id":34,"depth":280,"text":35},{"id":108,"depth":280,"text":109},{"id":152,"depth":280,"text":153},null,{"slug":287,"name":288,"path":289},"asia-pacific","Asia-Pacific",[290,293,296],{"slug":291,"name":292},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":294,"name":295},"coffee-origins","Coffee Origins",{"slug":287,"name":288},[291,294,287],53379,{"src":300,"srcset":301,"width":302,"height":303,"alt":304},"\u002Fuploads\u002Fd8d3f922f5d29f1496ef.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002F75c604e7f60045058e96.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F83d1d025ea41998a5b21.webp 800w, \u002Fuploads\u002Fd8d3f922f5d29f1496ef.webp 1600w",1600,1200,"Contemporary Indonesian Specialty Coffee: A Chat with Three Coffee Processors","Interviews with Klasik Beans, Java Halu, and Tuang Coffee explore how Indonesian specialty coffee has evolved, and what inflation, rainfall, and supply-chain manipulation mean for the producers behind it.","md",false,"en",{},true,"\u002Fuploads\u002F37829385881a3ba23c83.jpg","\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53379","2026-09-29T03:38:22.000Z",10,[316,325,333,341],{"url":317,"title":318,"cover":319},"\u002Fasia-pacific\u002Fhow-india-acquired-a-taste-for-specialty-coffee","India's Coffee Scene: From a Hard Sell to a Craft Revolution",{"src":320,"srcset":321,"width":322,"height":323,"alt":324},"\u002Fuploads\u002Ff49e582d08040eaa8149.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002F55ded1f6ff370aa94e52.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002Ff49e582d08040eaa8149.webp 800w",800,600,"How India Acquired a Taste for Specialty Coffee",{"url":326,"title":327,"cover":328},"\u002Fasia-pacific\u002Findias-coffee-is-70-robusta-why-does-its-specialty-industry-avoid-drinking-it","India's Roasters Are Slowly Warming to the Robusta That Defines Their Coffee",{"src":329,"srcset":330,"width":322,"height":331,"alt":332},"\u002Fuploads\u002F59c98e42b6b69f63b138.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002Ffb6fb3a9b95df346c627.webp 400w, \u002Fuploads\u002F59c98e42b6b69f63b138.webp 800w",533,"India’s Coffee Is 70% Robusta. 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