[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":739},["ShallowReactive",2],{"item:\u002Fafrica\u002Fkeeping-up-with-mama-claude":3,"platform:site":224,"more:\u002Fafrica\u002Fkeeping-up-with-mama-claude":674},{"id":4,"title":5,"aiRevisedAt":6,"authors":7,"body":12,"canonical":144,"category":145,"categorySlugs":156,"cid":157,"cover":158,"description":164,"extension":165,"featured":166,"language":167,"meta":168,"navigation":169,"noindex":166,"ogImage":170,"path":171,"publishedAt":172,"readingMinutes":173,"recipe":144,"related":174,"revisedAt":144,"seo":206,"seoDescription":164,"seoTitle":5,"sortKey":144,"sources":207,"stem":211,"tagSlugs":212,"tags":215,"translations":220,"type":221,"url":222,"__hash__":223},"platformItems\u002Fplatform\u002Fitems\u002F53832.md","Mama Claude's Fields: A Portrait of Perseverance in Burundi","2026-10-20T11:20:54.000Z",[8],{"name":9,"slug":10,"role":11},"Cameron Evans","cameron-evans","author",{"type":13,"value":14,"toc":136},"minimark",[15,20,24,27,36,42,45,51,54,58,61,64,72,75,78,81,84,90,93,97,100,105,108,111,117,120,123,127,130],[16,17,19],"h2",{"id":18},"a-dawn-encounter-in-burundi","A Dawn Encounter in Burundi",[21,22,23],"p",{},"The air is thick with the scent of animal dung and eucalyptus leaves, and a damp mist clings to the dirt roads. Dawn is just breaking over Burundi, the purple light pushing back the night. I am already on the road, my old Land Rover Defender protesting the early start. We bounce over a pothole-riddled stretch of earth, coffee trees visible in the rearview mirror, heading toward the home of Mama Claude, a farmer who grows both coffee and tea. I wonder what we will have in common—a white woman from the American Midwest, raised in a middle-class family, now complaining about homework from a free education, while she was surviving a war and navigating poverty.",[21,25,26],{},"Just as the last darkness lifts, I arrive with my son, our office manager Alice, and our agronomist Epapharus, a man whose heart is far larger than his stature. Mama Claude bursts from her small brick home, arms wide, exclaiming that she never expected me to actually come. We laugh, and the laughter pushes against our cultural divide, shrinking it instantly. Two of her sons lean against a rough wooden doorway painted teal blue, their bare feet pressed into the cool cement floor. I smile; they do not smile back. Mama Claude notices and brings them over for an introduction. There is something about her that immediately puts me at ease—she seems made up of equal parts fearlessness and openness.",[21,28,29],{},[30,31],"img",{"alt":32,"height":33,"src":34,"width":35},"Mama Claude is not simply a coffee or tea farmer, she grows beans and corn and sweet potatoes and a range of other crops to sell and feed her family.",867,"\u002Fuploads\u002F5e522e8878ff7b1615c1.webp",1300,[21,37,38],{},[39,40,41],"em",{},"Mama Claude is not simply a coffee or tea farmer; she grows beans, corn, sweet potatoes, and a range of other crops to sell and feed her family.",[21,43,44],{},"I ask if she has eaten yet, eager to see her cooking process. Mama Claude explains that her family never eats a morning meal. They cannot afford to. I drop my eyes, remembering that I woke up extra early to ensure I had a good breakfast and decent coffee. When will you eat? I ask. Not until three p.m., she says. And then? Not until the following day at three p.m.",[46,47,48],"blockquote",{},[21,49,50],{},"There is a manner about Mama Claude that instantly puts me at ease; it seems to me she is made up of equal parts fearlessness and openness.",[21,52,53],{},"Farmers in Burundi cultivate several crops to make ends meet. When you meet a Burundian coffee farmer, you are also meeting a Burundian tea, bean, corn, or sweet potato farmer. Mama Claude has a tea field, a plot for beans, and 500 coffee trees. She is responsible for farming it all, as her husband lives and works over an hour away in the capital city. It only seems fair that I should put my breakfast to the test.",[16,55,57],{"id":56},"lessons-in-tea-picking","Lessons in Tea Picking",[21,59,60],{},"It’s time to pick some tea. We walk for thirty minutes over dirt paths packed to a red-brown sheen by the feet of those before us. Mama Claude rotates her days between her fields, harvesting coffee in the afternoon and tea in the morning, or tea one day and coffee the next.",[21,62,63],{},"When we reach her tea field, she gives me a quick lesson: three leaves only, and if the tea isn’t picked to exact specifications, buyers will reject her whole day’s labor. She chuckles when I challenge her to a tea-picking duel—my team of three against her team of one, first to fill a bag wins.",[21,65,66],{},[30,67],{"alt":68,"height":69,"src":70,"width":71},"CherriesInHand",500,"\u002Fuploads\u002F4d04b490917a3cd5126b.webp",333,[21,73,74],{},"My fingers begin to burn. Soft, uncalloused hands aren’t made for this work. My Midwest farming roots fail me, and it’s clear that Epapharus, Alice, and I cannot keep pace. Together we pick tea at one-third of her rate. I keep picking anyway because, well, I’ve had breakfast.",[21,76,77],{},"Mama Claude is fifty-seven and has farmed this tea field with eleven different babies on her back, all of them hers. She tells me my two boys are not enough; I must have more children, especially because I pick tea so slowly. At least I’m raising them in Burundi—that, she says, I’m doing right. Her humorous, gentle jabs revive my hands. Standing in a waist-high sea of green, we laugh. I look down at the beautiful cloth igitenge she gave me to wear while working. Her thoughtfulness and her story intrigue me, so the questions tumble out. How did she meet her husband?",[21,79,80],{},"In 1974, a student named Concilie Nzikobanyanka fell in love. At just sixteen, she dropped out of school and chose marriage over books. Her parents disapproved and tried hard to stop her, but Concilie was determined that a love like hers was worth it. She became Mama Claude with the birth of her firstborn son, taking his name as is customary in many African countries. Are you happy now with your choice to forgo school? I ask. She shoots me a tough glance. “We need to live without regretting our choices. Do you see me lacking anything?” I can think of a few things I would complain about if I were her—like a lack of electricity and running water.",[21,82,83],{},"The sun pounds down on foreheads and tea fields alike. I take a water break to rest my fingers and think about how much I have, and that I have not recently stood up and said, “Do you see me lacking anything?”",[21,85,86],{},[30,87],{"alt":88,"height":33,"src":89,"width":35},"MCwithTwoBoys","\u002Fuploads\u002F627def932f4e176380fe.webp",[21,91,92],{},"In the year Mama Claude gave birth to her second child in her dirt-floored home, I was born into the gold-shag-carpeted world of the snowy Upper Midwest in the late 1970s. I was drawn to the idea of building a life in Africa from a young age. It was just one of those things—a place that felt like home from the time I was ten, even though I didn’t set foot on its shores until I was nineteen. Once I did make it to Africa, I let its glow seep into my bones and never really considered building a home anywhere else. That was fifteen years ago. Now, watching the morning sunlight flare behind Mama Claude’s silhouette and hearing her rich laugh reverberate across the hills, I feel more at home in Burundi than ever before.",[16,94,96],{"id":95},"coffee-community-and-a-washing-station","Coffee, Community, and a Washing Station",[21,98,99],{},"Home can be a journey in itself. Two years ago, my small family became coffee producers when we built a washing station on a rural hillside in the heart of one of Burundi’s best coffee-producing regions. Mama Claude’s coffee trees line part of the road to our washing station, and her home with its banana-leaf walkway stands less than half a mile away. Oswald, who is nineteen and one of Mama Claude’s eleven children, is part of a team of “coffee scouts” we’ve trained to search for and capture the antestia bug. The antestia bug destroys coffee seeds by boring a hole through the coffee cherry, which protects the seed—or “bean”—as it will later be called. Drilled with perfectly round precision, antestia boreholes expose the coffee seed to bacteria, believed to be the source of the dreaded potato defect that wracks our region.",[46,101,102],{},[21,103,104],{},"My hands are tired and raw and my whole back throbs with ache, while a woman over twenty years my senior continues on with what seems like absolute ease.",[21,106,107],{},"Now, under the haven of Mama Claude’s coffee trees, we make crunching steps across dry mulch beds of banana leaves. It’s nearing the end of the coffee season, and with the close of the harvest comes the dust of the dry season. This year, the end of the seasonal rains stopped Burundi’s bumper harvest in its tracks. Without rain, stunted coffee cherries hang hard and brown on the trees, a relic of what could have been. A few ripe cherries remain—those that matured before the rains stopped—and a dull, repeating thunk sounds from beneath the trees as small handfuls hit the bottom of a plastic pail. These trees are worn and old, reaching for the sky and almost getting there. Like most of Burundi’s coffee trees, they need both pruning and fertilizer. Mama Claude’s youngest sons are helping with the harvest and threaten to pop the plump coffee cherries into their mouths. Mama Claude scolds them for thinking of it. They laugh and keep harvesting. These cherries, no matter how good they are, are not for eating.",[21,109,110],{},"Supporting Britain’s beloved football team, Mama Claude wears a Manchester United shirt with pride. We talk about her love of soccer as we pick cherries in the afternoon heat. In her small mud-brick home, images of soccer players are plastered loudly over bare stucco walls. When I sat on her couch—a firm wooden structure with no cushions, made in the curvaceous Burundian fashion—I couldn’t help but stare long and hard at the image of a fierce Manchester United player kicking a ball, dripping with sweat. Illuminated by the only light source, the open door and the daylight beyond, he looks surreal, frozen mid-kick on Mama Claude’s wall.",[21,112,113],{},[30,114],{"alt":115,"height":33,"src":116,"width":35},"BagOnHead_WalkingAway","\u002Fuploads\u002F94b60a229ff43b3c71a8.webp",[21,118,119],{},"Branches and leaves catch in my hair as I try to dip low under brittle coffee trees. Mama Claude laughs at me; I don’t do anything with her finesse. My hands are tired and raw and my whole back throbs with ache, while a woman over twenty years my senior continues with what seems like absolute ease. She smiles at me sitting in the mulch, feigning a camera lens change. “When you are exhausted, you can’t just opt out of life here. You have to learn to persevere. Who else will harvest this field? There is no one but me.” I think about how true that is.",[21,121,122],{},"With a meager harvest, we return to Mama Claude’s home. Water is pumped from a nearby well and poured over dusty coffee cherries. Hands stir, and the cherries glisten. Those that float to the surface are removed, rejected from the day’s harvest. With care, Mama Claude pours the coffee cherries into a bright blue basket to take to the washing station. We walk the short distance from her house to the washing station, laughing about the day as a herd of goats passes by.",[16,124,126],{"id":125},"reflections-on-resilience","Reflections on Resilience",[21,128,129],{},"I touch the blood blisters on my fingers. They remind me of a woman coffee farmer whose humor and gratitude have connected me to Burundi and my life here in new ways. By everyone’s accounts, Mama Claude lives well below the poverty line. She has very little, to be sure, yet she is respected and admired by those in her community. She is a leader, a problem solver, a friend, a mother, and a coffee farmer. Now, whenever I travel the dirt road connecting the village of Bukeye to our washing station, I can’t pass her blue front door without shouting, “Mama Claude ari hehe?” (Where’s Mama Claude?) to one of her neighbors. One day she was helping a friend harvest beans. Another day she was fertilizing her coffee trees. On yet another day she was cultivating her fields for potatoes. The answer is never the same, but one thing is certain: Mama Claude is out in a field somewhere in Burundi, farming with courage, wisdom, and a hefty dose of humor.",[21,131,132,133],{},"—",[39,134,135],{},"Kristy Carlson works and lives in Burundi, where she and her husband, Ben, grow coffee, manage a washing station, and help connect farmers to roasters through the Long Miles Coffee Project.",{"title":137,"searchDepth":138,"depth":138,"links":139},"",2,[140,141,142,143],{"id":18,"depth":138,"text":19},{"id":56,"depth":138,"text":57},{"id":95,"depth":138,"text":96},{"id":125,"depth":138,"text":126},null,{"slug":146,"name":147,"path":148},"africa","Africa",[149,152,155],{"slug":150,"name":151},"coffee-tea","Coffee & Tea",{"slug":153,"name":154},"coffee-origins","Coffee Origins",{"slug":146,"name":147},[150,153,146],53832,{"src":159,"srcset":160,"width":161,"height":162,"alt":163},"\u002Fuploads\u002Fdd63764e0a4f1d353a58.webp","\u002Fuploads\u002F6602397076c1f2796ee4.webp 400w, 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